I'm (not) sorry I keep going on about the latest wave of presentations at the LFW AW16 but this medium got so sophisticated by now that it's impossible to ignore and worth being covered properly as nearly 40% of the designer on schedule hosted a presentation.
Edeline Lee focused her creative energy on simplicity and integrity, presenting a pared down collection, going back to the basics in her silhouette, colour palette and use of fabric. The presentation was held at the ONlOFF Vinyl Factory where the looks and the models were placed a playful, simple but eye catching installation of black and white floor, mirrors and coloured piles of shredded paper.
Virgin Wool crepe and boucle are used for utilitarian boiler suits, tops, trousers and dresses and for stunning, cosy outerwear. The only concession to print is a delicate floral pattern that occasionally become 3D flowers.
I've had Georgia Hardinge on my radar since her collaboration with River Island back in 2013 (I've been with the company for 4 years) and this season finally had the chance to see her work in person. Her presentation/catwalk was held at the first floor of the Painting Rooms, just off Tottenham Court Road ( Oxford Street) and inspired by lenticular techniques and the stellar parallax. The concept may sound obscure but the looks were a pleasure to watch. Metallic foil stars appeare and disappear between the precise and elegant pleats of skirts and dresses, in the deep colours of the sky - cobalt, magenta and ivory. The room where the collection was shown was small - it could contain 20 people at one given time - and not only you could see the clothes really well but the whole atmosphere was relaxed but professional, friendly but extremely well curated.
Gabriel Vilema's presentation instead was at the ground floor of The Painting Rooms and, again, the room being even smaller than Hardinge's, really fit the concept of the collection. Infact the models were in a colourful submarine and us, the guest all packed in front of them, as if we really were under the sea. The collection is inspired by the sea world, animals and plants, as well as sailors and 'The Life Aquatic' by Wes Anderson. Vielma's feminine looks came in the tones of vivid green, electric blue and warm saffron and the fun element was added by the nautical and marine references - knots, braids, frills and seagull prints.